(Old-)fashion(ed) obession

Last night J and I watched Sweet Land (excellent, I highly recommend) and this morning I watched the rest of Northanger Abbey off Tivo while I drank my coffee. These two viewings unexpectedly spawned a burning desire to adopt some of the fashions of decades long past.

In Sweet Land, I fell head over heels with young Inge's traveling outfit of circa 1920 deep purple above-ankle-length (wool?) gored skirt and fitted black puff-sleeved jacket. I drooled over her black brimmed hat with the purple and black polka-dotted scarf tied around it. If you want to see the outfit in all its glory, visit the movie's clips page and watch Clip 2. Sigh.

I think the skirt from Folkwear pattern 232 will do nicely. The jacket may be more problematic. But where there's a will, there's a way!

I always yearn for Regency-era fashion a bit whenever I watch a Jane Austen movie, but that familiar pull was especially acute as I watched Northanger Abbey. I particularly fancied the jackets, especially the cute little Spencer jacket in light blue velvet. Fortunately this recreation will be a bit easier, thanks to this pattern from (the aptly named) Sense and Sensibility. For Jane-worthy gowns, I like their "The Lady's Elegant Closet" pattern, as well as Folkwear pattern 215.

An accidental obsession occurred while looking for the Spencer jacket pattern. I stumbled over a little selection of patterns collectively called "Women of the Middle Bustle Era: 1877-1882." I'm especially fond of the elaborately draped skirts that don't actually require a bustle.

Sigh, I think I'm in love.

Thrifty genes

I’ve inherited many traits from my mother. My eye and hair colors. My body type. My extreme nearsightedness (we’re talking blind as a bat, people). My tendency to talk with my hands. And, last but not least, my love of thrift store shopping.

I can’t pinpoint my first thrift store experience, but since my mother and her mother thrifted before I can remember (and probably long before I was born), it was with undoubtedly by the side of one or the other (if not both).

I do have distinct grade-school memories of visiting my grandmother’s home in the San Francisco Bay Area and walking to nearby thrift stores, and taking BART (Bay Area Rapid Transit) to others. I was always thrilled with my clothing finds, because even at that age, I liked that I had something that no other kid in my class would have.

(Come to think of it, my grandfather was a thrifter, too. About five years ago, my grandmother gave me a partial set of Mikasa china. I finally asked her about its provenance last fall. It turns out my grandfather [who died when I as a child] had pieced together that incomplete collection from thrift stores! Of course, at the time my grandmother was all, “Why do we need more china?”)

Through the years, I continued to thrift store shop with Mom and Grandmother, then with friends in high school and college. One of my first jobs out of college, as a poorly paid reporter at a weekly newspaper in a small western Oregon town, was luckily within two blocks of a decent Goodwill. My editor (a friend who graduated a year ahead of me) and I knew exactly when new shipments came in, and made sure to take a break to hit the racks, unless news was breaking (ha!). One of my best finds was an Anne Klein double breasted suit jacket, which I wore for years.

Then I moved to the Midwest, followed by two years in New Jersey, and I abandoned thrifting altogether (and I was an hour from NYC…what was I thinking?!).

When I took up bellydance with a vengeance four years ago, I started making occasional forays into a Goodwill here, a Value Village there, to look for velvet tops and long, full skirts suitable for class or costuming.

My official return to thrifting was the day after Thanksgiving last year. J had to work; I did not. I was able to go to Goodwill by myself (we use our car very little and tend to group our errands, so he was always with me on previous trips) with the time and space to roam the racks and sift the wheat from the chaff. You know how you can not see a good friend for what feels like forever, and then take up exactly where you left off. Yep, me and thrifting.

My friend Goodwill was especially good to me on my one appointed January thrifting trip (in accordance with my Wardrobe Refashion pledge). For $80 and change (including tax) I got 22 items of clothing:

• Three cute cardigans (pink cotton, red cotton, charcoal merino wool)
• Three hoodies (red velour, olive velour, charcoal knit)
• Two pink striped shirts (Eddie Bauer and American Eagle)
• Green washable suede jacket
• Green Gap zip-front short raincoat
• Summery hip-length, ¾-sleeve jacket in shades of blue and green
• Cozy nubby fleece jacket
• Black ribbed merino wool turtleneck
• Deep red nubby wool Eddie Bauer sweater set
• Striped I.N.C sweater
• Olive green rib-knit V-neck sweater
• Blue cropped sweater perfect for bellydance class
• Crazy striped sweater with bell sleeves
• Burgundy long-sleeved Ann Taylor crew-neck T
• Lime green ribbed boat-neck T
• White button-down shirt with stripes of black stitching
• Red/black brocade button-front vest

Items in italics were a mere 99 cents each (red tags). The others were 30 percent off of their tagged price (blue and green tags). Bold items need some refashioning (just new buttons in one case). I have my February trip planned for the big President's Day sale, when Goodwill has the same 99 cent/30 percent off arrangement going. Good times!

Pix of a few items are on my Flickr page. I'll include one or two in this post later...

Tranformation with a capital T

I've become quite enamored with Generation T: 108 Ways to Transform a T-Shirt, which I checked out from the library but now must actually purchase. I ran my first test projects by raiding my stack of "too baggy but maybe still OK for gardening" T-shirts. I also plucked two nearly new Old Navy Perfect Fit Ts for good measure (I bought them last year while losing weight and they fit me properly for about two nanoseconds before failing to be my perfect fit).

My first guinea pig was a turquoise heather ONPF T, which I transformed into the stegosaurus T (number 33 in the book, "tying game"). All it required was cutting off the sleeves, hem and neck, making one vertical cut all the way up center back, then making a series of 3-inch horizontal cuts 1+ inches apart on both sides of the center cut, then tie a bunch of knots and you're in business.

My pink ONPF T got a different treatment (number 19 in the book, "fermez la ruche"). I started by (again) saying "bye-bye" to sleeves, neck and hem. Then, I stitched new side seams 1" from the existing seam. That extra seam allowance became casings for drawstrings made from the few inches of T I cut from the bottom. Cute! A detail photo of the ruching is on my Flickr page.

When I lived in Belltown and had a P-Patch (community garden) plot, I bought a P-Patch T-shirt because I liked the color and graphics. What I didn't like was that it was a man's-style T. Now that it was even baggier than ever, I never wore it. But now, minus mannish sleeves and too-long hem, plus two new side seams to nip it in, I think I will wear it quite a lot (it's number 14, "classic punk"). I gave a similar treatment to a really baggy white V-neck (keeping the original) neck, but felt it was to utilitarian to bother photographing.

Next up: Let's see how many items of clothing I can make from a super-soft thick brushed cotton long-sleeve T of Js in a great color of red that surprisingly has barely faded (J bought it back when he still tended to wear his shirts and sweaters on the big side; now that he wears sleeker clothing , he's purging his closet). I'm aiming for a little skirt, legwarmers, hat and arm warmers.

I (heart) refashioning

Being out of town last weekend put a crimp in my refashioning activities, but I managed to finish a pair of arm warmers made from a beloved black- and white-striped T-shirt that had an unfortunate stain on the front. I have enough scraps left to make some sort of headband, when I get around to that. My Wardrobe Refashion pledge is really keeping me motivated, I'll tell ya.

I also whipped up a olive green panne velvet skirt that's great over yoga pants for bellydance class, or as one element in a tribal fusion-style costume. The velvet wasn't a color I usually choose (it looked slightly different online), but it looks vibrant against black, and the price was right: $3 for the one yard when the previous owners of denverfabrics.com were clearing out inventory to make way for new owners last fall. I have additional photos on my Flickr page, including some with the skirt layered under similar skirts made of black burnout velvet and gray/silver fishnet. There are also two fuzzy photos of the costume I made for the Fremont Arts Council Winter Solstice Feast (where I bellydanced with burning candles and managed to not spill wax or break the snifters holding the candles...whoo-hoo!).

The skirts are my approximation of the Rosehips skirts made by Rose Harden, formerly of the troupe Ultra Gypsy. I'm a committed DIYer and have no ethical problem copying other people's designs for myself (never to sell!), but I like to give credit, especially when the designer is a one-woman operation.

Leapin' leopards, part 1

This weekend I finished my first few projects for my Wardrobe Refashion pledge. Two are in the photo at right. The leopard-print fleece jacket is from Butterick retro pattern 4928. I purchased the fabric last fall on sale at fabric.com. I opted to not line the jacket, since the fleece feels so cozy. The fabric cost $14.60, and I still have some sizable scraps left to use on some other small projects (an ear-protecting headband, for example). Thread was the only other cost.

Also pictured are a pair of flat-front denim trousers that I had all-but-finished three months ago. I finally finished hemming them and tacking down the waistband lining. The dark stretch denim was a steal at $1.95 a yard from fabric.com (yes, I do love them very much). Including zipper, thread and bias tape, these cost me maybe $6 to make.

I also finished refashioning a light gray, slightly metallic lightweight sweater set I bought at Goodwill for $5. I shortened the thin straps on the shell by 4 inches, making it look less like a strappy tank, more like a sleeveless square-necked shell. I took in the too-big cardigan along the sleeve and side seams to make it fit a little closer. Photos of that project, along with a front view and pattern envelope view of the leopard jacket are posted on my Flickr page.

Up next: I have a whole slew of Goodwill purchase that have refashioning written all over them. Plus, I just got a book on T-shirt refashioning from the library, so I have many T's that should be looking very different, very soon.

Wardrobe Refashion Pledge

Seeing as I have amassed such a stash of lovely fabric that I can't even fit it in a steamer trunk (yes, I have an ancient steamer trunk in my sewing/yoga/bellydance room, so I mean this literally), it seems prudent to actually turn the fabric into wearable apparel. How fortunate that I tripped across a blog that offers the motivation to toss myself off the retail/consumer treadmill and onto the road of creative clothing expression, aka refashioning. To that end, I gladly take this pledge:

I, Kate, pledge that I shall abstain from the purchase of "new" manufactured items of clothing, for the period of 6 months. I pledge that I shall refashion, renovate or recycle preloved items for myself with my own hands in fabric, yarn or other medium for the term of my contract. I pledge that I will share the love and post a photo of my refashioned, renovated, recycled, crafted or created item of clothing on the Wardrobe Refashion blog, so that others may share the joy that thy thriftyness brings!

As an addendum to this pledge, I vow not to purchase any new fabric, unless I need it to complete a project for which I have the other materials needed. I also vow to limit my trips to Goodwill or other thrift stores to one per calendar month for the duration of this pledge.

Note: In case you're curious, the Wardrobe Refashion pledge does allow for the purchase of new shoes and undergarments, although pledgers are encouraged to take a stab at making those themselves, too!

This pledge technically took effect January 1. I'll have you know that it was quite difficult to not walk into Banana Republic yesterday to check out their sale. But I abstained, like a good little refashionista. Yay me!